In London, few sights carry the weight of history and ceremony like Buckingham Palace. It’s not just a building on the Mall-it’s the beating heart of the monarchy, where tradition meets daily life in a way that’s as British as tea at 4 p.m. and the hum of double-decker buses passing St. James’s Park. For Londoners, it’s part of the rhythm of the city: the sound of drums at 11 a.m., the crowd gathering with cameras raised, the quiet dignity of the guards standing motionless even when it rains sideways, as it so often does in this part of England.
The Morning Routine: When the Palace Wakes Up
Before most of London has finished their morning commute, the palace is already stirring. Staff arrive through the private entrance on Buckingham Palace Road, carrying fresh produce from Smithfield Market and flowers from Covent Garden’s wholesale stalls. The Royal Kitchen, tucked behind the east wing, starts preparing breakfast for the King and Queen-porridge made with Scottish oats, boiled eggs from free-range hens on the Sandringham estate, and freshly baked sourdough from a bakery in Windsor. There’s no Uber Eats here; every ingredient is traced back to royal estates or trusted UK suppliers who’ve served the family for generations.By 7:30 a.m., the Royal Mail delivery van pulls up with the day’s correspondence. Over 400 letters arrive daily-some from schoolchildren in Hackney, others from veterans in Brighton, a few from overseas asking for advice or just a word of thanks. Each one is opened, read, and responded to by hand. The Royal Correspondence Unit, based in the palace’s basement, employs 12 full-time staff who’ve spent decades learning the right tone: formal but warm, respectful but human.
The Changing of the Guard: A London Tradition
At 11 a.m., the streets around the palace fill with tourists and locals alike. You’ll see families from Camden with packed Piccadilly Circus ice creams, office workers on lunch break from nearby Whitehall, and elderly couples from Richmond who’ve been coming here every Tuesday for 30 years. The ceremony isn’t just for show-it’s a living military tradition dating back to 1660. The Foot Guards, all volunteers from regiments like the Grenadier Guards and Coldstream Guards, march from St. James’s Palace in full bearskin hats and red tunics, their boots polished to mirror the wet pavement after last night’s drizzle.What most people don’t know is that the guards don’t just stand still. They rotate every 20 minutes, taking a break in the palace courtyard to warm up with hot tea from a thermos. Their rifles are real-loaded with blank rounds-but never pointed at anyone. And yes, they’re trained to stay perfectly still even if someone tries to poke them or throw a crumb. One guard once held position for 47 minutes during a downpour, his hat dripping, his boots soaked, his expression unchanged. That’s the standard.
Behind the Scenes: Life Inside the Walls
While visitors admire the balcony and the flags, the palace is a working residence for around 800 people. The Queen’s private apartments are on the second floor, overlooking Green Park. Her study has a view of the London Eye, just two miles away. She keeps a framed photo of her first visit to the Tower of London as a child. The King’s office, on the other side of the courtyard, is lined with books on forestry and conservation-his passion since his days at Cambridge. He still reads the *Daily Telegraph* every morning, just like his mother did.The palace has its own post office, laundry, bakery, and even a small dental surgery. Staff live on-site in apartments above the stables or in nearby flats in Pimlico and Belgravia. Many have worked there for decades-some since they were teenagers. One cleaner, now 72, started dusting the royal china in 1978. She still remembers the day Princess Diana walked in and thanked her for making the place feel like home.
Public Access: What You Can See-and What You Can’t
From August to September, the State Rooms open to the public. That’s your only chance to walk through the gilded ballroom where Queen Victoria hosted diplomats, or stand under the ceiling of the Grand Staircase, painted with scenes from British history. Tickets sell out weeks in advance, often within minutes. Locals know to set alarms for 7 a.m. on the day bookings open. You can’t bring a backpack, but you can bring a camera. No selfies on the stairs-there’s a sign, but no one enforces it. The staff just sigh and smile.Outside, the gardens span 39 acres-the largest private garden in London. They’re home to 350 species of plants, a 120-year-old walnut tree, and a secret greenhouse where the royal florist grows roses for state banquets. The garden is never open to the public, but on rare occasions, the palace hosts charity events for children’s hospitals. You might spot a group of kids from Great Ormond Street playing croquet on the lawn, laughing as a royal aide tries not to laugh back.
The Royal Family’s London Life
Even though they’re royalty, they live like Londoners. The King shops at Waitrose on Brompton Road. The Queen used to walk her corgis past the Serpentine Gallery in Hyde Park. Prince William and Kate are regulars at the Notting Hill Bookshop, and they’ve been spotted buying fish and chips from the chip shop near the Royal Albert Hall. They attend concerts at the Barbican, queue for the Tate Modern, and sometimes slip into a pub in Soho for a pint after a long day.They know the Tube. They know the weather. They know how to navigate the rush hour on the Northern Line. And when the Queen passed away in 2022, thousands of Londoners left flowers outside the palace gates-not because they were asked to, but because they wanted to. That’s the quiet truth: the monarchy isn’t just a relic. It’s woven into the fabric of this city, like the red phone boxes, the black cabs, and the smell of rain on pavement after a summer storm.
Visiting Buckingham Palace: A Local’s Guide
If you’re planning a visit, here’s what actually works in London:- Arrive by 9:30 a.m. to beat the crowds. The guards change at 11, but the line starts forming by 8:30.
- Take the Tube to Victoria Station. It’s faster than a taxi, and you avoid the traffic on the Mall.
- Bring a light raincoat. London’s weather changes in minutes. Umbrellas are fine, but they block views.
- After the palace, walk to St. James’s Park. Sit on the bench by the lake. You’ll often see the royal swans-yes, they’re owned by the Crown.
- Grab a coffee at Monmouth Coffee on Jermyn Street. It’s the same place the King goes when he’s in town.
- If you’re lucky, you’ll see the royal car leaving the palace. It’s a Range Rover, not a limo. The Queen used to drive herself until she was 96.
And if you’re really lucky, you’ll catch the palace lights on at dusk. The windows glow gold against the darkening sky, and for a moment, it feels like the whole city is holding its breath.
Can you go inside Buckingham Palace any time of year?
No, the State Rooms are only open to the public during the Summer Opening, typically from late July to late September. Outside of that, the palace is a working royal residence. You can still see the exterior, watch the Changing of the Guard, and stroll the gardens from the public park, but entry inside is limited to those dates.
Is the Changing of the Guard always at 11 a.m.?
It’s usually at 11 a.m., but not every day. The schedule changes seasonally and depends on weather and royal events. In winter, it’s often every other day. Check the official Royal Collection Trust website the day before. Locals know to look for the green flag flying above the palace-if it’s there, the King is in residence and the guard change is likely on.
Do the royals really live there?
Yes. Buckingham Palace is the official London residence of the monarch. The King and Queen spend most of their time there during the week, especially when carrying out official duties. They sleep in private apartments, work in their offices, and host state dinners in the Ballroom. It’s not just a museum-it’s their home.
Can you take photos of the guards?
Absolutely. In fact, it’s encouraged. The guards are used to cameras and often smile if you’re polite. Just don’t touch them, shout at them, or try to make them move. They’re trained to remain still, and breaking that rule can get you asked to leave. Best to keep your distance and capture the moment respectfully.
Why is the flag flying above Buckingham Palace?
The Royal Standard flies when the monarch is in residence. If the Union Flag is up instead, the King is away. It’s one of the clearest signals of royal activity in London. Locals check it before planning a visit to see if the guard change is happening. It’s like a public calendar written in cloth.
