In London, few sights are as instantly recognizable-or as deeply woven into the city’s rhythm-as the Queen’s Guards standing sentry at Buckingham Palace. These tall, stoic figures in red coats and towering black bearskin hats aren’t just tourist photo ops. They’re active soldiers, trained for combat, and part of a tradition that’s been running uninterrupted for over 500 years. If you’ve ever stood on the Mall watching them march in perfect sync, you’ve witnessed a living piece of British history that still beats to the drum of discipline, duty, and deep-rooted custom.
Who Are the Queen’s Guards?
The Queen’s Guards-now the King’s Guards since the passing of Queen Elizabeth II-are drawn from five regiments of the British Army’s Household Division: the Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish, and Welsh Guards. Each regiment wears slightly different uniform details: the Grenadiers have red plumes on their bearskins, the Coldstream wear blue, and the Scots Guards go bareheaded, their kilts and sporans replacing the fur hats. These aren’t costumes. These are uniforms worn by men and women who’ve completed basic infantry training, passed fitness tests, and are qualified to serve in active combat zones.
They’re posted at Buckingham Palace, St James’s Palace, the Tower of London, and Windsor Castle. At Buckingham Palace, they’re on duty 24/7, rotating every two hours. Their rifles are loaded with blank ammunition, but their training is real. In 2018, a Guardsman from the Grenadier Guards was deployed to Afghanistan just months after standing guard outside the palace. This isn’t ceremonial theatre-it’s military service with a public face.
The Changing of the Guard: When and Where to See It
If you’re planning to catch the Changing of the Guard in London, timing matters. The ceremony happens daily from April to July, and every other day the rest of the year-unless weather or state events interfere. It starts at 10:45 a.m. and lasts about 45 minutes, with the actual handover at 11:00 a.m. sharp. The route begins at Wellington Barracks, just off Birdcage Walk, behind St James’s Park. The band marches in, drums rolling, pipes wailing, and the incoming guard meets the outgoing one in front of the palace gates.
Best spots to watch? Stand along the railings on the Mall, or get close to the palace gates. Arrive at least 45 minutes early if you want a front-row view. Locals often bring thermoses of tea and sit on the benches near the Victoria Memorial. If you’re coming from the Tube, get off at Victoria, St James’s Park, or Green Park-all within a 10-minute walk. Avoid the crowds by watching from the side arches near the palace’s East Terrace; fewer tourists, same view.
Pro tip: Check the official Household Division website before you go. The ceremony is sometimes cancelled due to rain, military duties, or royal events. On days when the King is in residence, the guard is larger and the ceremony more elaborate. On days when he’s away, it’s scaled back.
Why the Bearskin Hats?
The bearskin hat isn’t just for show. It dates back to the Battle of Waterloo in 1815, when British troops adopted the tall fur headdress worn by Napoleon’s elite Grenadiers to appear taller and more intimidating. Today, each hat is made from real Canadian black bear fur, sourced under strict regulations. They weigh around 1.5 kilograms and take up to 12 hours to shape. The Ministry of Defence buys about 120 new ones a year.
Guardsmen wear them for up to six hours at a time, even in summer heat. No sunglasses. No water breaks. No scratching. The discipline is absolute. One Guardsman told a BBC interviewer that during a 38°C heatwave in 2022, he stood motionless for two hours straight. "You learn to tune out the world," he said. "The hat becomes part of you."
There’s a myth that the fur is cruelly obtained. But the bears are culled under Canadian wildlife management programs, and the Ministry of Defence insists no animals are killed solely for hats. Each hat lasts about 10 years. And yes-they’re expensive. One hat costs around £1,200.
What the Guards Can and Can’t Do
Visitors often try to get a reaction: waving, shouting, or posing for selfies right in front of them. Don’t. The Guards are trained to remain completely still. If you get too close or touch them, they’ll issue a firm verbal warning. In extreme cases, they may raise their bayonet-not to harm, but to create space. They’re not robots, but they’re not entertainers either.
They’re allowed to blink. They’re allowed to shift weight from foot to foot after 10 minutes. And yes, they’re allowed to use the bathroom. They take breaks in shifts, and there are portable toilets behind the palace. They’re human. Just highly disciplined humans.
And if you’re wondering whether they carry real weapons: yes, but only in certain situations. During state occasions or heightened security alerts, their rifles are loaded with live rounds. On regular days, they carry unloaded rifles with blank ammunition. The bayonets are always fixed. It’s a symbolic gesture of readiness.
How to Respect the Tradition
Londoners know better than to treat the Guards like props. Locals often tip their hats or nod as they pass. Tourists should too. Don’t block their path. Don’t climb on the railings. Don’t try to take selfies with them mid-ceremony. The guards aren’t there for your Instagram feed-they’re there because someone has to be.
If you want to learn more, visit the Guards Museum at Wellington Barracks. It’s free, open daily, and packed with uniforms, medals, and stories from soldiers who’ve served in Iraq, Afghanistan, and Northern Ireland. You’ll see the actual bearskin hats up close, and hear how one Guardsman from Cardiff once marched in the Queen’s funeral procession after his father had done the same 50 years earlier.
The Guards Beyond Buckingham Palace
The King’s Guards aren’t just at the palace. You’ll spot them at Horse Guards Parade, where the annual Trooping the Colour takes place every June. You’ll see them at the Tower of London, guarding the Crown Jewels. And if you’re in Windsor, you might catch them at the castle’s State Apartments, where the routine is quieter but just as precise.
On Remembrance Sunday, the Guards march from Whitehall to the Cenotaph, their bearskins gleaming under the London fog. On state funerals, they carry the coffin of monarchs with a precision that’s been drilled into them since childhood. This isn’t pageantry for tourists. It’s ritual for a nation.
What You Won’t See on Tourist Brochures
Behind the spectacle is a quiet reality. The Guards live in barracks in London, often sharing rooms with six others. Their pay starts at £22,000 a year. They train in Windsor, go on field exercises in Scotland, and sometimes deploy overseas. Many join because their families have served for generations. One Guardsman from Birmingham told me he’s the third generation in his family to wear the red coat.
They’re not paid extra for standing still. They don’t get overtime for the crowds. They do it because it’s part of who they are. And if you stand still long enough, watching them in the rain, the sun, or the mist of a London morning, you’ll realize something: these men and women aren’t just guarding a building. They’re guarding a memory. A tradition. A symbol of continuity in a city that changes faster than almost any other in the world.
So next time you’re in London, don’t just snap a photo. Take a moment. Watch them. Listen to the drums. Notice the way the sunlight catches the brass buttons on their coats. And remember-they’re not here for you. But they’re here, every day, because someone had to be.
Can you take photos with the Queen’s Guards?
Yes, you can take photos from a respectful distance, but never interrupt them, get too close, or try to make them move. The Guards are trained to remain motionless, and any attempt to provoke a reaction may result in a verbal warning. Always wait until they’re on break or during a ceremony’s natural pause.
When is the best time to see the Changing of the Guard in London?
From April to July, the ceremony happens daily at 11:00 a.m. Outside those months, it’s every other day. Check the official Household Division website before you go, as cancellations happen due to weather or royal events. Arrive by 10:00 a.m. for the best viewing spots along the Mall.
Do the Queen’s Guards get paid extra for their ceremonial duties?
No. Their ceremonial duties are part of their regular military service. Guardsmen earn a starting salary of around £22,000 per year, with additional allowances for deployments or specialized roles. They don’t receive overtime for standing guard or marching in ceremonies.
Are the Queen’s Guards real soldiers?
Yes. All Guardsmen are fully trained infantry soldiers who’ve completed basic combat training. Many have served in active conflicts, including Afghanistan and Iraq. Their role at the palace is a temporary posting, not a separate job. They’re soldiers first, ceremonial figures second.
Can you visit the Guards Museum?
Yes. The Guards Museum at Wellington Barracks, just behind St James’s Park, is free to enter and open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. It features original uniforms, medals, weapons, and personal stories from Guardsmen across generations. It’s one of the most authentic, understated experiences in central London.
