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The Tower of London: Witness to Royal Betrayals and Triumphs

Oscar Fairbanks 0 Comments 20 January 2026

In London, few places carry the weight of history like the Tower of London. Standing on the north bank of the Thames, just downstream from London Bridge, this fortress has watched over the city for nearly 1,000 years-not just as a royal palace or prison, but as the stage for some of England’s most dramatic betrayals, executions, and coronation rituals. If you’ve walked past it on a commute from Tower Hill station, or taken the Tube to Tower Gateway after a day at the Shard, you’ve seen it. But how many of us really stop to think about what happened here?

A Fortress Built on Power

William the Conqueror ordered the White Tower built in 1078, not just to defend London, but to intimidate the locals. Its thick limestone walls, still visible today, were a physical reminder that Norman rule was here to stay. Over the centuries, it evolved from a royal residence into a symbol of royal control. Kings like Henry III and Edward I expanded it into the sprawling complex we see now-with inner and outer wards, moats (now dry), and 21 towers, each with its own grim story.

By the 14th century, it wasn’t just a palace-it was a state prison. Nobles who fell out of favor didn’t vanish quietly. They disappeared into the Tower. The Duke of Clarence, brother to Edward IV, was allegedly drowned in a butt of Malmsey wine. Sir Thomas More, once Lord Chancellor, was beheaded here after refusing to accept Henry VIII as head of the Church. His final words, recorded by a witness, were spoken not in fear, but in defiance: "I die the King’s good servant, and God’s first."

The Crown Jewels: A Symbol of Continuity

One of the most visited parts of the Tower today is the Jewel House, where the Crown Jewels are kept under 24/7 armed guard. The Imperial State Crown, worn by the monarch at the State Opening of Parliament, contains over 3,000 gems-including the 317-carat Cullinan II diamond and the 106-carat Black Prince’s Ruby. These aren’t just glittering decorations. They’re political objects. The crown’s design hasn’t changed much since the 17th century, even as the monarchy’s power has waned. The jewels are a living link to centuries of succession, rebellion, and restoration.

Visitors line up early, often before the Tower opens at 9 a.m., to catch the best light on the gems through the bulletproof glass. Many come straight from the South Bank after a walk along the Thames Path, or after grabbing a coffee from Pret at Tower Bridge Quay. It’s easy to treat it like any other attraction-but the weight of these objects isn’t just in their value. It’s in their history. The crown that Charles I wore before his execution was the same one that Elizabeth II wore in 1953.

The Beefeaters and the Ravens

Walk through the inner ward and you’ll see the Yeomen Warders-better known as Beefeaters. They’re not just costumed guides. They’re retired military personnel, selected for at least 22 years of service. Many still live on-site in the Tower’s historic apartments, their children going to local schools like St Katharine Cree. They know the stories by heart: the 1649 execution of Charles I, the 1536 beheading of Anne Boleyn on Tower Green, the mysterious disappearance of the Princes in the Tower in 1483.

And then there are the ravens. Legend says if the ravens ever leave the Tower, the kingdom will fall. That’s why there are always at least six, kept under the care of the Ravenmaster. Their wings are clipped-not to imprison them, but to keep them from flying too far. You’ll spot them perched on the battlements near the Waterloo Barracks, or strutting near the Martin Tower, where the Crown Jewels were once stored. Locals joke that one of them, Merlina, has more social media followers than some MPs.

The Crown Jewels glowing under spotlights in the Jewel House, with a Beefeater standing guard nearby.

Where History Meets Modern London

The Tower doesn’t exist in a vacuum. It’s part of a living, breathing stretch of London that still hums with daily life. Just across the river, you’ll find the Tate Modern, its chimney still puffing smoke like a relic of industrial London. A short walk east is the City of London, where traders in suits still rush past the Tower’s gates on their way to work. At lunchtime, you’ll see office workers from Canary Wharf grabbing sandwiches from Greggs and eating them on the steps of the Tower Hill memorial.

Even the nearby pubs carry echoes of the past. The Ten Bells, a 17th-century pub near Spitalfields, was frequented by Jack the Ripper’s victims. The Anchor, just a 10-minute walk from the Tower, has served ale since 1585. Locals know that if you want to sit where history was drunk, not just studied, you come here.

Why It Still Matters

Why does the Tower of London still draw over 3 million visitors a year? Because it’s not a museum. It’s a monument to power, fear, loyalty, and survival. In a city where the skyline changes every few years-with new towers rising in the Docklands, the Bloomberg building gleaming like a spaceship, and the Shard piercing the clouds-the Tower remains unchanged in its purpose. It reminds us that London’s identity was forged in blood and brass, not just in tube maps and coffee shops.

For Londoners, it’s not just a landmark. It’s a mirror. The same walls that held traitors now hold school groups on educational trips. The same grounds where queens were executed are now where tourists take selfies with the Beefeaters. The Crown Jewels, once hidden from the public, are now a free part of the experience for anyone who walks through the gates. That’s the magic of London: history isn’t locked away. It’s lived in.

What to See and Do

  • Arrive early-lines form quickly, especially on weekends. The Tower opens at 9 a.m. (10 a.m. on Sundays).
  • Book tickets online in advance to skip the ticket queue. Use the official Historic Royal Palaces website-avoid third-party sellers.
  • Join a free Beefeater tour. These 40-minute talks are packed with stories you won’t find in guidebooks.
  • Visit the Wakefield Tower to see the reconstructed medieval royal apartments.
  • Walk the moat path in the outer ward for the best photo angles of the White Tower.
  • Don’t miss the Chapel Royal of St Peter ad Vincula, where many executed nobles are buried. The plaques are small, quiet, and deeply moving.
Ravens on the Tower's battlements at twilight, fog drifting from the Thames, the Chapel Royal faintly lit behind them.

When to Visit

Spring and autumn are ideal. The crowds thin out after July, and the light on the Thames is perfect for photos. Winter can be cold and damp, but the Tower is less crowded-and the fog rolling in from the river adds to its eerie atmosphere. Avoid bank holidays unless you want to join the throngs of tourists from around the world.

If you’re a Londoner with a Citymapper app and a travelcard, consider visiting on a weekday after work. The last entry is at 5 p.m. (6 p.m. in summer), and the Tower lights up beautifully at dusk. You’ll have the place almost to yourself.

How to Get There

The Tower of London is easily accessible by public transport:

  • Tower Hill Tube (District and Circle lines) - 5-minute walk
  • Tower Gateway DLR - 3-minute walk
  • London Bridge Station (National Rail, Jubilee and Northern lines) - 15-minute walk along the Thames Path

There’s no parking nearby. If you’re driving, use the NCP car park at Tower Bridge Road-just don’t expect to find a spot on weekends.

Is the Tower of London really haunted?

Many visitors report strange feelings-cold spots, whispers, or the sensation of being watched-especially near the Bloody Tower or the Chapel Royal. While there’s no scientific proof, the Tower’s history makes it a hotspot for ghost stories. The ghost of Anne Boleyn has been seen holding her head near the Chapel, and the spirit of the young Princes in the Tower is said to wander the inner ward. Even the Beefeaters admit they sometimes avoid walking alone near the White Tower after dark.

Can you see the Crown Jewels without a ticket?

No. Access to the Jewel House requires a full ticket to the Tower of London. There’s no free viewing from outside. However, you can walk around the exterior and see the Tower from Tower Bridge or the South Bank for free. The view of the White Tower from the river is one of London’s most iconic.

Are the ravens real, or are they just for show?

They’re real birds-black ravens, to be exact-and they’re cared for by the Ravenmaster, a full-time role dating back to the 1600s. Each raven has a name, a favorite perch, and a diet of raw meat, eggs, and blood-soaked biscuits. Their wings are clipped, but they can still fly short distances. One, named Thor, once escaped and was found three streets away, sitting on a rooftop in Bermondsey.

Is the Tower of London suitable for children?

Yes, but prepare them. The stories of beheadings and torture aren’t sugar-coated. Kids under 10 might find it scary. The Tower offers a free family trail with puzzles and interactive displays, and the Jewel House is always a hit. Bring snacks-the café inside is pricey. The nearby Tower Bridge Exhibition is a great follow-up for younger visitors.

What’s the best time of day to visit?

Early morning, right at opening, is ideal. The light hits the White Tower perfectly, and you’ll beat the tour groups. If you’re a local and want peace, go on a weekday after 4 p.m. The last hour before closing is quiet, and the Tower’s stone walls glow in the late afternoon sun. It’s when you’ll feel the weight of history most.

Next Steps for Londoners

If you’ve never been inside the Tower, make it a goal this year. If you’ve been a hundred times, go again-but this time, listen to the Beefeater’s stories, not just the audio guide. Walk to the Chapel Royal and read the names on the plaques. Stand where the last queen to be executed in England took her final breath. London doesn’t need more attractions. It needs more people who remember what happened here.